85: How Food "Authenticity" Commodifies Identities with Jenny Dorsey

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We’ve seen food media really start to crack when grappling this summer with who can cook what, and for who. The power that recipe production and food media has on flattening complex marginalized identities into harmful stereotypes while white chefs appropriate cultural dishes for their own prestige has become a much bigger conversation. But how does the idea of authenticity shape power and privilege in cooking? And what are the particular ways that commodifying identities can harm BIPOC chefs and restaurant owners?

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Today chef and activist Jenny Dorsey is here to explore these further. She founded and runs the incredible Studio ATAO, a non-profit that creates immersive experiences at the centre of food, art, and social impact. Jenny is a first-generation Chinese American who has worked in Michelin-starred restaurants. In 2014, she pivoted to impact-driven culinary work, which eventually led to the formation of Studio ATAO. It’s best known for Asian in America, a public exhibition that explores the narrative of Asian American identity through food and drink courses, VR, spoken word, and poetry, and they’re also know for their free, collaborative community resources that address social impact topics.

Since the onset of the pandemic, she and her team have put their public and live events on hold, but they’ve continued to create online content and educational resources that address pertinent issues in the food world and beyond, from Recognizing, Disrupting & Preventing Tokenization in Food Media to Understanding Anti-Intellectualism.

Today on the show we’re unpacking the idea of authenticity in food, and how it ties in deeply to the commodification of marginalized identities, as well as the ways she’s challenging this through her exhibits, resources, and impact-driven culinary work. 

Learn More About Jenny & Studio ATAO!