87: Are Local Food Movements Elitist? with Paul O. Mims

The local, slow food movement romanticized everything, and created a dichotomy that if you don’t eat organically, from local food sources, from farmers, you’re not doing it right. You’re not eating right, you’re not caring about the environment, you’re not caring about yourself… It’s not realistic, there are people who can’t afford it! You have to use what you have.
— Paul O. Mims
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It’s been a while since I’ve put out an episode, so I am extra excited to get these episodes rolling out again. These are a continuation of season 6 that got a bit de-railed after a provincial lockdown up here in Ontario. Today, we’re back on our regular interviews, and this one is an episode I’ve been SO pumped to share since the moment we sat down for this talk.

When we talk about the food system and all its faults, the overwhelming trend in the last twenty years has been, well… we just have to eat local. But what does that actually mean, and is it accessible to eat local, or is it an elitist bandaid solution to the much bigger societal problems it’s trying to skirt?

My guest this week is the phenomenal food writer, creator, and educator Paul O. Mims, who is on the show to explore the elitism of local food movements and his unique and refreshing lens as a food writer. Born and raised in Cleveland, Ohio, Paul began cooking at six years old with his grandmother. He's run culinary programs at a public library, worked as a museum educator at New York’s premier food and beverage museum, taught at public schools worked as a community organizer conducting community food access programs, and even teaching cooking as a drag queen. Paul's unique and expansive career is so easily showcased in his food writing as well: he has that very rare ability of being incredibly concise but also able to bring so many considerations in when exploring key issues in the food world.

This week he’s on the show to explore one of the essays he’s written on Medium unpacking the local food scene. We look at how the local food movement started, and Paul explores how the public started to romanticize agriculture, and how white women’s moralities began to shape and take hold of the ethics of food consumption in the 21st century.  If you grew up in the era of Food, Inc, feeling stressed about Michael Pollan telling you what to eat and how to eat it, this is one of those conversations that really takes a step back and assesses the amount of damage that these movements and their elitism has had on the food world, and I have been so looking forward to sharing this with you.

Learn More About Paul! 

86: Seedkeeping and Land Back with Tiffany Traverse of 4th Sister Farm

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Today’s interview is really special for me to share with you all, because my guest is someone I’ve formed a really wonderful friendship with through the podcast community – I’m fairly certain we connected through one of my former guests, Trina Moyles – and being able to sit with her today after years of both of us growing our work and cheering each other on means a lot. So! Now that I’ve set the stage, I will introduce our fabulous guest for today… Tiffany Traverse!

Tiffany’s self described as a Secwépemc and Swiss-Italian Seed Keeper, chicken chaser, Zone 2 stretcher, and Fourth Sister to the land. She’s been experimenting and working on cultivating, saving, and sharing Indigenous vegetable and herb seed varieties through Fourth Sister Farms.

Today she speaks with me on the work she’s doing at Fourth Sister Farm and how it connects to a broader community of seed keepers across Turtle Island to foster Indigenous food and land sovereignty. We also speak to the importance of Land Back and the ways we can do more to help Indigenous land and water protectors continue their efforts.

Learn More About Tiffany and 4th Sister Farm! 

More Land and Seed Resources

85: How Food "Authenticity" Commodifies Identities with Jenny Dorsey

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We’ve seen food media really start to crack when grappling this summer with who can cook what, and for who. The power that recipe production and food media has on flattening complex marginalized identities into harmful stereotypes while white chefs appropriate cultural dishes for their own prestige has become a much bigger conversation. But how does the idea of authenticity shape power and privilege in cooking? And what are the particular ways that commodifying identities can harm BIPOC chefs and restaurant owners?

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Today chef and activist Jenny Dorsey is here to explore these further. She founded and runs the incredible Studio ATAO, a non-profit that creates immersive experiences at the centre of food, art, and social impact. Jenny is a first-generation Chinese American who has worked in Michelin-starred restaurants. In 2014, she pivoted to impact-driven culinary work, which eventually led to the formation of Studio ATAO. It’s best known for Asian in America, a public exhibition that explores the narrative of Asian American identity through food and drink courses, VR, spoken word, and poetry, and they’re also know for their free, collaborative community resources that address social impact topics.

Since the onset of the pandemic, she and her team have put their public and live events on hold, but they’ve continued to create online content and educational resources that address pertinent issues in the food world and beyond, from Recognizing, Disrupting & Preventing Tokenization in Food Media to Understanding Anti-Intellectualism.

Today on the show we’re unpacking the idea of authenticity in food, and how it ties in deeply to the commodification of marginalized identities, as well as the ways she’s challenging this through her exhibits, resources, and impact-driven culinary work. 

Learn More About Jenny & Studio ATAO!

84: Anti-Racism in Dietetic Practice and Training with Gurneet K. Dhami

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We’ve talked on the show before about how there are a lot of really white-centric connotations around the idea of “Canadian” food – a lot of people say there’s no such thing as Canadian food, or joke about poutine… and those whitewashing tactics in our food landscape are woven in more insidious ways into the fabrics of how nutrition and dietetics are taught and understood.

My guest today is Gurneet Kaur Dhami, a settler of Panjabi-Sikh descent travelling between Kanadario and Mi’lma’ki as she completes her Masters of Science in Applied Human Nutrition at Mount Saint Vincent University. She is currently completing her studies to become a dietitian and her thesis focus is on the experiences of racialized dietitians in Canada.

Gurneet is on the show today to share some of her work and knowledge on the main issues that racialized dietiticians face – not just in being dieticians but also in the process of becoming dieticians, and how the racist structures guiding nutrition and diet studies perpetuate racism and food security issues for BIPOC communities seeking nutritional guidance. 

Gurneet’s approaches to social justice and anti-oppression work within the many communities she works in are so multi-faceted, and I am really excited to share this conversation with you!

Learn More About Gurneet: 

  • Website: https://www.gurneetkdhami.com/

  • Support Gurneet on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/gurneetkdhami

  • Instagram: @gurneetkdhami

  • Twitter: @GurneetKDhami

83: Diners, Dudes, & Diets with Dr. Emily Contois

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The phrase “dude food” likely brings to mind a range of very specific images: burgers stacked impossibly high with an assortment of toppings that were themselves once considered a meal, crazed sports fans demolishing radioactively hot wings, barbecued or bacon wrapped…anything. But there is SO much more to the phenomenon of dude food than how outrageous the plate looks.

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My guest this week, Dr. Emily Contois, is an Assistant Professor of Media Studies at the University of Tulsa. Dr. Contois is here to explore dude food and chat about her fresh out this week book, Diners, Dudes, and Diets: How Gender and Power Collide in Food Media and Culture. Her book begins with the dude himself – the man who retains masculine privileges but doesn’t meet traditional standards of economic and social success.

Dr. Contois explores how the Great Recession’s aftermath contributed to this collision of dude masculinity and food producers and markets, and the lasting impact this gendering of food has had on food production, consumption, and informs the way we carry out our personal identity contests and media lives.

She is truly one of my absolute favourite food researchers out there – I mean she has papers out that explore Guy Fieri’s Flavourtown, and she’s got these accessible syllabi and reading lists for food media studies that really get the weird ways social media and Instagram have interacted with our own identities, so suffice to say I’ve been very excited to share this interview!

Learn More about Dr. Contois

82: How to Start a Feminist Restaurant with Dr. Alex Ketchum

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With much attention finally being paid to sexual harassment and labour issues within the restaurant industries, it’s easy to view restaurant and food culture simply as being rooted in misogyny and patriarchy. But there are many feminist restaurant and coffeehouse spaces, some incredibly long standing, that serve to really challenge the structures and spaces we operate in. So what does a feminist coffeehouse or restaurant look like?

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My guest this week, Dr. Alex Ketchum, is here to unpack that question more. Dr. Ketchum is currently a faculty lecturer at the Institute for Gender, Sexuality, and Feminist Studies at McGill University. Her doctoral dissertation from McGill focused on feminist restaurants, cafes, and coffeehouses in the United States and Canada from 1972-1989. Searching through women’s lesbian, and gay travel archives, she creates a data base that built a series of maps showing where American and Canadian feminist restaurants and cafes were located.  She has a newly launched DIY guidebook, How to Start a Feminist Restaurant, that gleans the lessons of what makes an intentional feminist restaurant space work, and what to consider.

Today she’s on the show to explore some of the key findings from her research, and how she used them to launch the feminist restaurant project website to share her findings to highlight how past feminist restaurant owners navigated gender and racial barriers to opening restaurants, and what these takeaways can offer for today’s feminist communities.

Get Social with Dr. Ketchum!